How To Eat Like A Local In Florence
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Florence is a breathtaking city that seems like it’s frozen in time. It’s the centerpiece of Tuscany, where Renaissance architecture was born and centuries-old churches are as common as subway stations. Vibrant energy fills the cobblestoned streets and symbolic art is tucked into just about every corner. Most of all, it’s the city where you can live out all of your handmade pasta, fresh cheese, and chianti fantasies.
Everywhere you turn, you’ll see loved ones sharing meals and friends catching up over a cappuccino and a pastry. The city centers around the Cattedrale di Santa Maria del Fiore, the main church of Florence, or more commonly referred to as “Il Duomo,” and to this day the Florence Cathedral has the largest brick dome ever constructed. It’s the people, cuisine, laid-back essence, and the effortless style that’ll make you fall in love with the timeless city of Firenze. Here’s how to eat your way through Florence like a pro.
Osteria Il Gatto E La Volpe
Penne alla vodka fans, this is where the magic happens. The pasta here is cooked perfectly al dente and the vodka sauce is something out of fairytale – the pink sauce has just the right ratio of tomato sauce to cream with flavorful pieces of sautéed onion hidden throughout. This is the perfect spot for a family-style dinner. Order a bottle of the house Chianti and the mozzarella di bufala with fresh tomatoes and thick Italian balsamic.
La Giostra
This cozy gem is a little on the expensive side, but it should definitely be high on your list. Customers are usually greeted with a complimentary glass of spumante (not uncommon in Florence to give out complimentary shots or wine) and appetizers. La Giostra (which means carousel in Italian) has been around for over a decade and is well known for its pear and pecorino ravioli, and for good reason. The Carbonara Tartuffi Bianchi (white truffle carbonara) is ridiculously unique and decadent and pairs well with a full-bodied red wine (go with a Barolo).
All’Antico Vinaio
This tiny sandwich shop is a Florence staple. With lines spilling out onto the street, you know you’re in for a treat. Everything is reasonably priced and the bread is so fresh you might even witness a local baker bringing in steaming loaves of oven-fresh focaccia. Order any sandwich on the focaccia, then pick your meat, veggies, cheese, housemade spread (parmesan, eggplant, artichoke, truffle, sun-dried tomato) and you’re golden. There’s also a self-service wine bar with glasses you can take to the street while you sit with your sandwich.
Salumeria Verdi
More commonly known as “Pino’s Sandwiches,” Salumeria Verdi is a well-respected panini shop that’s been around since 1900. The man, the myth, the legend himself, Pino, has been operating the store for over 20 years and still goes in every day with a huge smile on his face. All of the sandwich ingredients are made in-house and the portion sizes are just satisfying enough. Unlike All’Antico Vinaio, there’s plenty of indoor seating here. You’ll be inspired by the aroma of prosciutto and it’s hard to avoid the mountains of arancini (rice balls) and flowing supply of olive oil soaked roasted red peppers. Go in and ask Pino to make you something special and he’ll come up with the sandwich of your dreams.
Edoardo il Gelato Biologico
This is your spot for gelato in Florence. Right under the Duomo, Edoardo is turning out organic gelato, unlike the more commercialized shops you see with the ice cream piled miles high in a glass cabinet. The gelato is kept hidden under metal lids, to ensure it’s as fresh as possible and it’s all free from additives, preservatives, artificial colors, and GMO ingredients. On a hot summer day in Florence, this is the perfect treat.
Osteria Santo Spirito
Located in Piazza Santa Spirito, this restaurant is home to the best gnocchi you’ll probably ever lay your eyes on. Baked to bubbly perfection, the cheesy truffle gnocchi here is ridiculously indulgent and big enough to feed a few people. You might run into some tourists or abroad students during the day, but later into the night, you’ll be surrounded by locals. The pasta here so fresh, you might think nonna (Italian grandma) is in the back kneading the dough herself.
Secret Bakery
When you arrive in Florence, you might hear rumors about a secret bakery. This isn’t a joke, there are actually wholesale bakeries that are closed during the day but busy bees at night, baking away the baked goods displayed throughout the cafes of Florence. Bakeries with unmarked storefronts usually have a door in the back alley where they sell fresh-from-the-oven goods to night owls and drunk passerby looking for late night munchies. One of the main locations is Pasticceria Vinci & Bongini located in an alleyway behind via De’ Benci. You can knock if no one is around or wait in line until a baker opens the door. If you can score a warm chocolate croissant, consider yourself lucky.
Gusta Pizza
Across the Arno, is one of the go-to pizza spots in Florence. Gusta Pizza is super casual and inexpensive but the pizza is on another level. Your pizza goes straight into the brick oven when you place the order and within minutes it’s ready for your speedy consumption. Each personal pizza is more beautiful than the next with fresh tomatoes and basil, bubbling cheese, and a soft golden crust. Order the margherita pizza with pesto and ask for it in a heart shape. Sit with your pizza on the steps of Santo Spirito Basilica and soak it all in.
Trattoria Sostanza
Hidden in the alleyways of Florence is Trattoria Sostanza. You’ll sit at long communal tables and read the daily hand-written menu filled with rustic Tuscan cuisine. There’s an open kitchen and the chefs are more than friendly and ready to have a conversation with you or even discuss what’s on the menu. The butter chicken will change your life – the chef coats a plump chicken breast in flour, swirls it around in egg, and places it in a deep pan filled with sizzling butter. He seasons the chicken breast with herbs and lets the pan cook over embers in a rich butter bath. If steak is more your thing, the Bistecca alla Fiorentina (an Italian-style T-bone steak) is perfect for one person and comes to the table in all of its juicy glory.
Il Cantuccio di San Lorenzo
Your trip to Florence wouldn’t be complete without buying biscotti. Il Cantuccio is unassuming from the outside but the shop has a rich history. They are most well known for the cantuccini (biscotti) which are twice-baked and all made fresh daily with a secret family recipe. Try the original almond flavor or the soft varieties with chocolate, figs, plum, and apricot. The best way to eat these cookies is to dunk them in a glass of milk or cup of tea, and it’s a guaranteed way to avoid breaking a tooth.
Mercato Centrale
Imagine Eataly, but instead of having to import everything, it’s all local. Mercato Centrale is a huge indoor food market right next to the San Lorenzo leather market with basically everything you could possibly imagine. They sell fresh meat and fish, spices, produce, fresh burrata, and everything in between. There are plenty of vendors where you can actually get a homemade meal, and there’s a cooking school called Cucina Lorenzo De’ Medici right inside the market. The bruschetta is unbelievable and you’ll have to try the Florentine special from Da Nerbone called Lampredotto.
Acqua Al 2
Yes, you might run into a few tourists here, but the main reason to come to Acqua Al 2 is for the blueberry steak – a tender and juicy piece of steak is drenched in a blueberry balsamic reduction. This dish never disappoints. There’s also a pasta sampler where you can try four to five varieties of the homemade pasta. The charming eatery became such a hit that they opened a second location in Washington D.C. with the help of a childhood friend and DC native, Ralph Lee. However, nothing beats the original Florence location.
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